Pick the right location
Full sun, with moist well-drained soil
Full sun, with moist well-drained soil
Location, location, location. Choosing the right spot in your garden is the most important first step.
Like most fruits, blueberries do best when they have full sun all day. They can cope with a bit of shade, but if you want lots of blueberries off your bushes, they need to be planted in full sun.
They also prefer moist soil that is free-draining and has lots of organic matter. If your garden has heavy clay soil, you will need to add plenty of other materials like good quality compost or peat moss before you plant your blueberry bushes.
Unlike most other fruits, blueberries need soil with an acidic pH: ideally between 4.0 and 5.0. Remember water is pH neutral at 7 so blueberries really like their acid! If you have neutral or alkaline soil, you are going to need to lower the pH considerably before planting your blueberry bushes or they will not thrive at all.
You can get a soil tester at your local home & garden centre and make sure you follow the instructions carefully.
How do you lower the pH of your soil?
Add organic matter – You can add organic matter to your soil annually for a gradual pH-lowering effect – peat is an excellent choice. But, not in heavy clay soils – you need to call in the big guns!
Add aluminum sulfate – it creates acidity in the soil instantly as soon as it dissolves. Find it at your local garden centre or hardware supplier
Add sulfur – this is cheaper than aluminium sulphate but is also slower to act
From humble beginnings in Australia in the 1970’s, there are now plenty of varieties of blueberries available for the home gardener. The varieties that can be grown in Australian climates are broken down into three main groupings.
Northern highbush: these are cold climate blueberries that must have cold winters in order to set fruit. They are relatives of Vaccinium corymbosum that comes from the Great Lakes area of northern America. These bushes lose all their leaves in winter and can put up with very cold winters. These are the varieties that are mostly grown in Victoria and Tasmania as well as other cooler regions. Fruit from these varieties grown in cooler climates with ripen in December and continue until about April.
Southern highbush: These have the lowest need for winter chilling. They come from the southern USA and are mixed or ‘hybrid’ varieties mainly resulting from crosses between Vaccinium darrowii with Vaccinium corymbosum. Southern Highbush varieties grow well in coastal and warm inland regions from Sydney all the way up to far North Queensland. These are the most tropical-loving of the blueberry varietal families.
Depending on the location, these bushes will keep all of their leaves over winter – or just shed a few. The plants are generally semi-deciduous or evergreen depending on the climate. Fruit from this variety starts to ripen in late winter an continues through into mid-summer.
Rabbiteye: This funny-named family are low chill varieties, but can cope with moderately cool climates. They are derived from Vaccinium ashei and when the fruit is fully ripe it is similar in colour to the other types, but when immature it is the soft pink colour of a rabbit’s eye – hence the name!
Rabbiteye varieties are known to be strong & sturdy plants that start to fruit slightly later in the season that the Southern Highbush types. Like their Southern Highbush cousins, Rabbiteye plants can lose some of their leaves or remain evergreen through the colder months depending on their location. Fruit starts to ripen in late spring and continues throughout summer.
Different blueberry varieties are suited to different climates
Blueberrries need free-draining soil with lots of organic matter
Not such a silly question!
Make sure you have taken steps to get your soil pH to the right acidic level for blueberries to thrive. Blueberry plants should be planted in early spring. If you can find them, 2- to 3-year-old plants are a good choice as they are already well established.
Dig a hole about twice as wide and twice as deep as the roots of the plant you’re looking to plant
Make a batch of planting mix from 2 parts loam (sand 40 – silt 40 – clay 20) to 1 part compost blend (peat, pine bark, aged sawdust, compost) and put a layer in the bottom of your hole
Make sure you don’t plant the bush any deeper than it grew in the pot or it may end up with collar rot
Fill the rest of the hole with soil and compact it slightly
Apply a 10cm thick layer of mulch over the soil around the new bush but make sure you keep the mulch at least 4-5cm away from the plant stem
Water in well
Don’t apply any fertiliser for the first month – it is possible to love a blueberry bush to death with too much attention!
Watering Blueberry plants have a shallow and really fibrous root system and do require regular watering throughout the growing season. They are simply not a drought-tolerant plant and will stop producing flowers and fruit if they are left to dry out. When they are growing and fruiting, water 3 times per week, ensuring that the plants are not sitting in water – the soil needs to be free-draining remember.
Feeding If you added lots of organic matter when you planted your bushes you probably don’t need to add too much fertiliser. Once a year in spring, top dress or mulch the bushes with a good quality compost mix – keeping the mulch away from the stems. If you do want to use a liquid fertiliser, select one designed for acidic soil plants and apply it at about one-quarter of the recommended rate as blueberries have sensitive roots. And one nifty tip, feel free to throw your waste coffee grounds around you blueberry bushes – they’ll love you for it!
Pruning Luckily for most home gardeners, blueberries don’t need much pruning. In fact, don’t even bother to prune for the first five or six years. As the plant matures, in late winter-early spring time you will want to prune out some of the dead wood to make space for new, vigorous growth.
Prune with large cuts, removing any wood that is more than six years old, any branches that are reaching to the ground or are getting crowded in the middle of the bush. You can have a good clear out of any spindly looking twigs and any stems that will bear fruit right at the ground level.
Protecting There are lots of creatures who love blueberries as much as we all do. Yes, that’s right, birds and possums especially will get in and have a feast on your beloved blueberries if you don’t protect them. You’ll need to use bird netting or even keep your blueberries bushes in a caged in area if your local creatures are especially pesky!
Blueberries are quite low maintenance once they are established
You can grow your own blueberries anywhere
Blueberries can absolutely thrive in containers so even the tiniest garden can provide you with delicious fresh home-grown blueberries!
Select the biggest pot you can handle and fill it with acidic potting mix. Remember blueberries are acid-loving plants so make sure you buy potting mix that delivers a pH between 4.0 and 5.0.
Make sure the pot has good drainage holes as you don’t want to drown your blueberry bush
Plant your bush at the same level that it was in its original pot
Add a layer of mulch, making sure to keep the mulch away from the stem
Water in well & place the pot in a very sunny spot
Keep the soil moist but not wet
Only add fertiliser in early spring to promote new growth & make sure you select one that is suitable for acid-loving plants
For Northern Highbush varieties, put the pot out in garden over winter to ensure it gets adequate chill levels
For Southern Highbush and Rabbiteye varieties, finding a cooler spot for the pot in winter – but not a frosty spot – will assist the plant to have a rest before it gets going again in spring